These twice-spiced beef skewers, inspired by the meaty skewers sold by street vendors in China, are a sizzling, mouthwatering addition to any Memorial Day barbecue. They are far more exciting than the usual hot dog or hamburger, with a rich flavor profile enhanced by cumin and chili peppers.

Our recipe from the "Milk Street" cookbook involves applying a heady spice mixture to the beef just before cooking, with an additional sprinkling applied after cooking. This technique creates layers of flavor that are missing from skewers that are simply marinated and grilled.

The beef flat-iron steak is cut into strips, which increases the surface area available for browning while ensuring quick and even cooking. The strips are first mixed with a blend of sherry, soy sauce, and oil to add depth of flavor.

Meanwhile, cumin, fennel, and Sichuan peppercorns are toasted until fragrant and then ground with salt. Some of this spice mixture is set aside for garnish, while the rest is sprinkled over the beef and gently patted down to ensure it sticks.

The skewers are then grilled over high heat until charred on all sides, and finally, they are finished with the reserved spice mixture and a drizzle of chili oil for an extra kick.

For a variation, you can make lamb skewers, known as yang rou chuan, by substituting boneless lamb shoulder or leg. These skewers can be enjoyed as a snack, or served with steamed rice and stir-fried vegetables for a satisfying dinner.

The entire cooking process takes 45 minutes and serves 4.

Ingredients:

1½ pounds beef flat-iron steak, sliced against the grain into ¼-inch-thick strips

1 tablespoon dry sherry or Shaoxing wine

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, plus more for grill grate

2½ tablespoons cumin seeds

2½ teaspoons fennel seeds

1½ teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

Kosher salt

Chili oil, for serving (optional)

In a medium bowl, combine the beef, sherry, soy sauce, and oil. Let stand at room temperature while preparing the spice mix and the grill.

In a small skillet over medium-low, toast the cumin, fennel, and Sichuan peppercorns until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and add the pepper flakes. Process until coarsely ground, about 10 seconds. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in 1 teaspoon salt. Measure out 1 tablespoon of the mix and set aside to use as garnish.

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct, high-heat cooking. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals and let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute the coals evenly over one side of the grill bed; open the bottom grill vents and the lid vent. For a gas grill, turn all burners to high. Heat the grill, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate.

While the grill heats, thread the beef onto ten 8- to 10-inch metal skewers, evenly dividing the meat and pushing the pieces together. Sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over both sides of the meat, patting gently to adhere.

Grill until lightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes, then flip and grill until the second sides are lightly charred, another 2 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle both sides of the skewers with the reserved spice mix, then drizzle with chili oil (if using).

OVEN-COOKING METHOD

Follow the recipe through making and portioning the spice mix. Heat the broiler with a rack about 4 inches from the element. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, then set a wire rack in the baking sheet. While the broiler heats, thread the beef onto ten 8- to 10-inch metal skewers, evenly dividing the meat. Sprinkle the spice mix evenly over both sides of the meat, patting gently to adhere. Evenly space the skewers on the rack and broil until well browned, 2 to 3 minutes, then flip each skewer and grill until the second sides are well browned, another 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle both sides of the skewers with the reserved spice mix, then drizzle with chili oil, if using. For more recipes, visit Christopher Kimball's Milk Street website.